Exploring Long Point -- this is not the entrance just a good dinghy channel
Blueberry picking at Long Point
Looking out north to the main land
The problem with travel in Canadian waters is that data coverage is iffy depending on where I am at any given moment. Right now, I'm in Gore Bay using their internet service -- and on the phone with Verizon trying to straighten out my ability to use both the phone and the "jet pack" for internet. Hopefully that is done!!! Now, back to the Adventures of Sonador. When I last wrote I was heading to the Wilderness Rally at Harbor Island -- that's still in Michigan but right on the Canadian border. We "rallied" there last year also, and it's a good setting for thirty odd boats to gather, hear discussions as varied as using solar power, tying to shore, best reads, and best recipes. All interspersed with meals. libations, and good times visiting on shore. The only problem was the weather -- it rained on and off for the whole time -- and not just gentle rains, true downpours. Neither Sophie nor I were happy campers, making the trek to shore in the dinghy, only to get wetter than we would have been had we swam ashore. On the 3rd of July, we set off across the North Channel to the town of Thessalon, Ontario -- a relatively small town with a good marina, a grocery store, and the essential liquor store (remember you can't bring much into Canada). Much to my surprise, and to those boats travelling with me, the marina was closed -- that is there was no staff there to greet and help me tie up. A local boater came to my rescue, and then I helped the next several boats come in. We had the code for the bathrooms and showers, we were able to plug in for electricity, and we even used the marina lounge for a delightful pot luck that evening. Out of town by 9 a.m., and off to Long Point Cove -- one of my favorite anchorages. The seas were very calm, the sun shining and boating was good again. I was joined by Mel and Susan on CLASS ACT, Ron and Jo on THYME, HYSSOP, RYE, Chris and Diane on GUNKHOLER -- had happy hour on shore, and simply enjoyed the wilderness around us. We stayed at Long Point for three nights, then took off continuing to head east into the Whalesback and out to Eagle Island -- another good spot for getting Sophie ashore and exploring. The rain and wind continued for the time we were there; but thanks to CLASS ACT I was enticed to go exploring in the dinghy to another nearby island and to clamber the rocky hills of Eagle looking for blueberries (enough for a handful) On the 10th, we moved less than 5 miles to South Benjamin Island -- a very protected cove as long as the winds are from the north and east -- which they thankfully were. My first attempt to take Sophie ashore ended up with her on shore, running free and me in the dinghy trying to find a spot where we could actually get back together. She thought it was great fun -- I, on the other hand, had my doubts about this arrangement afterall there are bears and other wildlife that city dog has no concept of. Another blueberry picking adventure (this time with lots) and plans to leave the next morning for Gore Bay. Woke to dense fog, which appeared to be lifting, so set out for Gore about 7:30. Within an hour I was in a fog bank, sounding my horn every two minutes as the rules of the road require, slowing to a crawl, and keeping an eagle eye on the radar. Only had one radar contact, but certainly felt the wake of a large power vessel passing me -- my guess is it was the local fishing tug which plies these waters every day. Entering Gore Bay harbor was tricky since I still couldn't see much beyond my bow and there is a significant rock break water -- but got around that, into the service dock and finally into a slip. The fog didn't lift until late that afternoon. CLASS ACT experienced the same type of crossing, and other boats simply turned back to their anchorages for a few days. Why travel under those conditions? Well, the forecast for the next day (the 12th) was for extremely high winds, rain, and just yucky conditions -- and Gore Bay is a delightful town and marina. I've spent enough time here over the years that I know many of the local boaters and have established a passing friendship with several of them. So, here we sit -- another gloomy day. But this morning is the farmers market, and tonight several of us are going to the local theater. Last evening had dinner with friends, dining on smoked duck and enjoying the change of pace from life on the water. Plan to depart on Sunday -- weather and the water gods permitting. I'll try to post pictures later today.
My last evening in Charlevoix for the early summer -- it's been a fun time, filled with Sophie walks, dinners with boating friends, and endless hours of just sitting and looking around me. This is from my boat looking out at the shore of Round Lake -- the large grey garage structure is just that, but for the many boats that they own.
And, two days later I've departed Mackinaw City on my way across Lake Huron. About 44 nautical miles or almost five hours underway. This is the Round Island Light, across the passage from Mackinaw Island, and ten miles into the trip. Note the clouds in the distance -- they caught up with me after I had Sonador tied up at the docks at DeTour Village.
Freighter traffic headed west bound -- she is over two miles away from me -- and pretty impressive.
Among other things for which Charlevoix is famous -- the mushroom houses. These are just three of the homes, designed by a local (didn't finish architecture school) who left his imprint on this charming town. The top one is one of his first. They are small, and cute, but I wonder how far cute goes when the roof line is at the top of the front door.
The next is a significant modification to an original -- as far as I can tell little is left of the small house that occupied the same block. Watched them thatching that roof last year; that really has to be a "lost art" but supposedly will last for eons. The owners have turned this into a rental, including for special occasions.
And, just a couple of houses away, another of the small houses -- actually it is two stories on the street behind it. I really appreciate the dedication to keeping these gems as close to original -- note the stacked stone wall fronting this property. All of these and the dozens more are just a block from Lake Michigan, and are part of my morning explorations with Sophie. Hoping to pull out of Charlevoix on Thursday or Friday -- looking for that elusive weather window to head around the Straits to Cheboygan, Michigan and prepare to cross Lake Huron almost immediately to head to the wilderness rally. That will be a sign that boating has actually begun!
Our morning walks take us through the streets of Charlevoix and out to the Lake -- the big lake that is -- this is the light that marks the entrance to the channel leading from Lake Michigan into Round Lake where we are happily tied to a dock.. Even on a sunny morning, the Lake can look blue grey and cold. Water temperatures are somewhere in the low 50s right now -- neither fit for man nor beast.
Speaking of beasts. Sophie has found the perfect place for an afternoon siesta -- on my bunk, in the sun light, head on my pillows. Not certain why I try to pretend this is my territory not hers.
Last week I received a message from one of my cousins from Kansas -- actually these ladies are all cousins once removed since their mother is my cousin. Anyway, they are out and about enjoying their time together and showed up in Charlevoix for dinner last evening. It was fun catching up, and hearing their ambitious plans to visit Mackinaw, then tour thru Ontario to New York, down through Philadelphia, then to DC for a couple of days before returning to the mid-west.
I was gently reminded by one of my good friends -- and a blog follower -- that my last posting was in September as I was preparing to head south. Now, I'm north! Little to report on the trip north -- except that I have a new car -- a little RAV 4 that does just fine as long as I don't bring my entire household with me. Sophie still gets her half of the back seat, the passenger front seat is loaded with snacks, maps, and stuff. And, the rest of the car has the usual packing trimmed down to fit the smaller size. That requires shopping on this end for many of the staples of life -- but surprise, surprise, Michigan has stores where things like paper towels, dog food, and spices can be purchased. Arrived in Charlevoix last Saturday -- actually, Boyne City which is at the south end of Lake Charlevoix where I stay with my good friends Donna and Lou. This has become such a regular part of the trip, that Sophie bounds from the car and immediately heads for the spot on their stairs where she can keep an eye on the comings and goings of the humans in the house. And, this year she had to keep a sharp eye out as their daughter and her family (husband, three sons) were also in residence to celebrate Donna's birthday which she shares with the middle grand son. We had a great time, and Sophie made new friends. Sunday, I began the task of moving all life's necessities out of the car and onto the boat. Slower than last year, but over the course of two days finished getting everything on board, and most of it tucked away. The advantage of bringing less is that it takes less energy for the initial unpacking. The disadvantage is that I've made at least two runs to the grocery store 'cause it's been quite awhile since I've had to completely stock up on staples. On Tuesday morning, Lou helped me move Sonador to our downtown location at the Charlevoix City Marina. Harbor master Hal and Pat welcomed us back, and Sophie got her regular treat of dog cookie to confirm that we're here. Caught up with fellow boaters who are also here every year as the season begins, and then returned to the comfort of Donna and Lou's home since it was dropping into the low 40's that night. Wednesday, I officially moved onboard. Over the winter our favorite place for morning coffee on main street burned down, as did another structure in the next block, but other than those two losses, Charlevoix remains a very welcoming, comfortable place to start the summer. Farmers' market on Thursday -- the feature purchase was fresh asparagus -- dinner with Oat and Rosemarie from ALMOST HEAVEN. Friday basically lost to reading and lounging around. Yesterday, I met Chuck and Joann from MOKU HALE in Petoskey for lunch; and today I'm having dinner with friends who live here on Round Lake. Life, as they say, is good.