Getting Around in Alexandria

A little bird reminded me that I haven't been keeping up with the blog, so here 'tis.

Am home -- have been for almost two weeks -- and am bumbling around Alexandria in a "soft brace" meant for sports injuries (I guess clambering on rocks is a sport). Can even drive the car, and walk the dog!

The real test will be the Annapolis Sailboat Show next weekend, when I plan to join the throngs who poke and prod at all the latest in boating and sailing at prices that just can't be matched.

I should be declared totally fit by the end of the month -- maybe even a little before. Then I have to start to bone up on the Canadian Boaters' License test which I will have to pass before I can take the boat out next summer (and yes, I will be returning to the fateful Beausoleil Island among other venues as I try to milk as much out of the Georgian Bay and North Channel as is possible).

In the interim, they've started work on the enclosure for the back of Sonador and are working to refinish the teak doors. She's been winterized and I suppose the shrink wrap will go on in the next week or so -- won't be quite the plush arrangement of last year, but almost every boat in Midland get's stored outside and there are some very expensive, very large boats at the marina so I'm not worried.

The "verdict"

So, the Doctor in Arlington confirms "broken ankle" and has manipulated the bones into the perfect position, given me a purple cast, and asked that I come back in two weeks for more xrays. Should be able to put "some weight" on the foot by this time next week, probably four to six weeks before the cast comes off. And, then I'm good to go for next boating season!

That should mean that I can get around the docks at the Sailboat Show and the Powerboat Show in Annapolis in early October.

Am staying with friends in Annapolis, will move back to Alexandria when I can manage the stairs and getting around -- for their sake, hopefully after the two week re-xray!

Frying Pan -- scene of the "end"

Here we are at anchor in Frying Pan Bay on Beausoleil Island -- a great little Bay surrounded by rocks -- not anything new, right?

Really well marked hiking trails varying in length from 1/2 mile to several miles -- Chessie and I opted for mid length trails that took us to interesting overlooks!

Then, after Mom fell and the night had passed at anchor, Diane had to get Chessie to shore -- one worried dog who never rides standing up in the dinghy, but,

"hey Mom send me ashore with this person alone, and she never does that. Am I about to be left here? I knew it would happen eventually."

After visiting the Canadian health care professionals, nothing will do but a little Gin and Tonic on the stern -- why let something like a broken ankle spoil the fun?

Am now back in Annapolis, waiting to head to the doctor's on Monday p.m. in Arlington. My friends, Grier and Mike (who were supposed to be enjoying Ontario from the boat this week), came all the way up to Midland to rescue me, and then drove straight through back to Annapolis (took us about fourteen hours as we traveled through torrential rains on Friday up and down the hills of central NY and PA). We are indebted!!

Into every life a little rain!

Diane and I had a great time at Beausoleil Island (Frying Pan Bay) -- we anchored, hiked, swam, cooked on the grill for two days -- then

well, I happened upon a very slippery rock and less than twenty hours later I've been diagnosed with a broken ankle! UGGHHH!

Not a bad break -- as ankles go -- am in a formed splint (formed around my leg) with ace bandages holding everything in place -- will return to Alexandria soon as possible (probably end of August) as I have to arrange: winterizing the boat; getting Canadian customs to waive the requirement that I get the boat out of their nation or pay taxes; pack up all my junk; and get Chessie, myself (can't drive cause it's my right ankle), and all our stuff back home.

No great discomfort, except learning how to hobble around the boat on crutches. Canadian health care system was great -- into, assessed, xrayed and released from emergency treatment with presciptions for pain, and good attention by Doctors and nurses all within four hours of arriving at an emergency room (and competing with some clients brought in by local police).

Everyone here is being wonderful about my situation -- the boat yard has "kids" who will come by and walk Chessie, they will come to me on Monday to discuss all the particulars about this winter (including the paperwork for Customs), and will even do shopping for me, if -- forbid -- I should run out of food before I'm out of here. Plan to be back in the D.C. area no later than Sunday, August 30th, p.m.

Midland

We had a fun, and uneventful trip from Parry Sound to Midland -- across and down the Georgian Bay approximately 56 miles (not the 35 I had anticipated). While Ellen drove their car around (took her about an hour and a half), James and I ventured out the Waubuno Channel to the open Bay -- not a difficult trip and fairly open (except the entry which was practically a U turn into the Channel through some pretty special rocks).

We made good time, although at the exit to the Channel, we missed a mark (not critical but confusing at first) and then out into deep water and a straight course to the next major mark, a casual left, then we decided that the chart makers who drew the magenta line didn't know whereof they charted -- they had the course going through some rather narrow passages in six feet of water -- we chose a course that had us in over 100 feet of water (and it was less than a mile longer than the "preferred" course.) Most of the trip was at 10+ knots, so Sonador got to flex her engines some.


The marina is a delight, nicely set up with service and facilities of all sorts. Saturday morning James and Ellen took off for Annapolis. Today, I will venture into the town of Midland (about a mile away) to begin to reprovision.

It's air conditioning time -- probably in the mid-80's -- so, it's nice that I'm plugged in. Chessie goes out only first thing in the morning, then retreats to the cooler air inside.

Pictures later.

Parry Sound

On the way to Parry Sound, we had some beautiful weather and awesome views. As we keep saying each morning, it's a shame this area is so blah!

After we tied up at Big Sound Marina (the city of Perry Sound's municipal marina) we were entertained by two of these training ships coming into port under sail -- in fact they sailed into the dock, without a problem, so the training must be taking hold.

Perry Sound is a thriving little city -- but public transportation to and from here is almost non-existent -- as James found out when he tried both bus (yes there is a bus, but if you don't already have a ticket, and oh, by the way you can't purchase a ticket here, then you can't get on) and train (yes, there is a passenger train running from Toronto to Sudbury, but it departs Perry Sound at something like 4:30 in the morning!!). So, I'm here for two nights -- today James and Ellen are being shuttled to their car in Sudbury by sailing friends who cottage in this area in the summer and sail the Bahamas in the winter -- and I strolled into town to get banking done, buy additional books, and purchase two small pieces of pottery done by a local native.

Tomorrow, I head to Midland which is across the Georgian Bay from here about 35 miles -- either James or Ellen will be with me, the other will drive their car the two hours it takes to get to Midland by road. James and Ellen will depart for the US -- and I will stay there awaiting my next crew member, Diane Butler! Just to provide an example of how friendly and generous the boaters are up here -- I'm taking a slip offered by someone we met in Britt who "well we are away for two weeks, so why don't you use ours, I'll call the marina (he did) and tell them to expect you -- and they aren't to charge you for this!" Remember, we were in Britt for two days!

Hopewell Bay #2

Exploring Hopewell Bay with James, CtD, and Ellen on the second day -- we took the dinghy down through marshes and up another arm of the Bay, before returning to Sonador at anchor. Cruiser (CtD) loves dinghy rides for dinghy ride sake -- Chessie could care less, so we left her to guard the door.

When we speak of rocks it's important that you understand we mean ROCKS -- this is typical of the shore line in this area of the Georgian Bay -- although there are almost as many of these things lurking beneath the waters as you see on top.

Some are just fascinating formations -- wonder what made this ancient granite look like this?

And then, some small pools are graced with lilies and quiet clear water. This is definitely a must return spot for future years.

Hopewell Bay #1

We left Britt mid/late morning on Monday -- the fog was so thick on Sunday that boats that had left came back once they poked out into the Georgian Bay -- and it wasn't much better first thing Monday. But, with the forcast for mist and light winds and the fog rising, we puttered out and went through the Small Craft Channel to Hopewell Bay.

Anchored just about the same place that Charlee and I did last year, and then went ashore to confirm that the stone dog we had built still lived. It did! This picture shows it as it survived the winter -- missing ears and tail -- but I later found the fallen rocks and put her back together.Now that the dinghy motor has been beaten into submission -- sometimes it wins, sometimes I win, but almost always I get to shore under motor. I'm able to explore more of the anchorages -- makes the trip all that more fulfilling. The picture above was taken from one of the small stone out-croppings in Hopewell Bay that Chessie and I used for morning walks.
And, this is looking out of Hopewell Bay to the Small Craft Channel -- which can be both interesting and frustrating, depending on your frame of mind. Note that we are now in the land of cottages, it's fun to watch the families bring all their water toys to little spots like this and seem to thrive.

Bustards

At anchor in the Bustards -- last year, this particular part of the harbor was a little too crowded for Charlee and I -- this year, we were the first to arrive, so we got a "choice" spot.
















We went exploring on the dinghy, cutting through some skinny water to a channel that would have led back out to the bay on the opposite side of the islands. Really very nice location, and blue berries!















Chessie and Melissa -- the intrepid adventurers. Note that I've still got a fleece on and this picture was taken on August 6th in the hotest part of the day!!!!















The view down one of the channels from the stern of Sonador. This is really relaxing.

Mill Lake and Nobles Island

Reflections at our anchorage on Mill Lake -- yes, the water really is this blue and the sky this clear

At anchor in Mill Lake -- the mid-way point thru the Collins Inlet.

And, sunset at Nobles Island where we were surrounded by large rocks, and had significant wind before the calm of the night

GLCC Rally - 2

The beginning of our five hour adventure in the dinghy was "very interesting" -- this is a one way, and then you'd better be praying, cut through the eastern end of East West Channel into the Iroquois Lake -- literally one small dinghy width and about as deep as the bottom of the prop (some small touches)

There were four dinghies -- we always brought up the tail end, since we had three adults, two dogs and a two horse power outboard to push us along.

These will give you a sense of the beauty, but pictures really don't do justice to the magnificent surroundings.

At our stop for lunch, we clambered up these rocks to feast on apples, potato chips and dip, and drink water -- nothing better on a long outing.

The inside of the chapel that serves McGregor Bay -- only open in the summer, accessible only by boat, and with a congregation of over 150 people. The church was established after Canada declared that burial grounds had to be sanctioned, and one way to sanction a burial ground (the summer residents had chosen this beautiful place for their final resting spot) was to build a church.

GLCC Rally -- Part 1

Entering McGregor Bay, we "hitched a ride" with fellow GLCC boats who had been in before -- at least the first boat in this group had been. The Captain was really good about keeping us informed about rocks and turns, and timing. At one point, he even suggested that if the boat immediately behind him didn't want to go aground, he'd better turn "now."

At anchor in the East West Channel -- our home for almost five days -- staying "hooked" despite a very strong wind on the next to the last day as a storm blew through.

Kayak races around the anchored boats -- the day before the kayaks had done a long paddle back out into McGregor

That's not a revival meeting, but James and Ellen joining in the sing-along after a dinner of hot dogs roasted on a large camp fire and all the "sides" that can be imagined.

Killarney to Britt

After the rally, we went back to Killarney for a "pump out" and to replenish stores. Stayed overnight at the Sportsman's Inn where the dockmaster likes to see me sweat getting in and out of an inner slip that ain't meant for us big guys. Somehow, he manages to give me confidence to motor between two big/expensive boats, do a ninety degree turn in less than forty feet, and then back into the slip -- the exit was just as exciting as now there was a boat in front of me, cutting the turning radius to less than thirty feet. Since I am writing this, and not in Canadian jail, then we must have made it.

Leaving Killarney, we entered the Georgian Bay via the Collins Inlet. We stopped along the way at Mill Lake, a nice size lake between the two ends of the gorge that makes up the Inlet. Had a good anchorage between several little islands. Then we went out to Beaverstone Bay -- the winds had picked up considerably -- so we sought a very sheltered anchorage behind Nobles Island. Probably had winds in the mid twenties which would have produced big waves in the open waters of the Georgian Bay (which was the next destination)

Then we crossed the next day to the Bustards -- open water cruising with the winds behind us, so it really was a comfortable ride if a little hard to keep a steady course with the following seas. The Bustards were empty when we arrived, so we picked a prime anchorage and went blue berry picking and exploring. More boats came in later, but we were never crowded. We had two beautiful days.

Yesterday, we did the fun trip between the Bustards and Britt. There are two "challenging" passages -- and then there are the "fun" trips trying to determine which green or red mark comes first. Got thru both Rogers Gut and Cunninghams Channel without touching -- a remarkable feat considering the latter hasn't any marks to note the most narrow and shallowest points. Then a run to Bing Inlet, and to a marina in Britt.

Yesterday ended with high winds. Today started with some very significant thunderstorms, but they seem to be gone for now. Tomorrow, weather permitting we head to Hopewell Bay where I'm curious to see if the stone dog Charlee and I built last year survived the winter and the people.

McGregor Bay -- GLCC Wilderness Rally -- July 30-August 2

I will have to upload pictures later -- although we have internet service, the reception is relatively weak.

But to let you all know, we are now in Britt and have had a great time. We spent four days with the Great Lakes Cruising Club at their wilderness rally in McGregor Bay. There are no -- I repeat NO marks in the bay -- charts appear to be pretty reliable, but it really helps to have local knowledge. So, we followed four sail boats into the rally location (about two hours of careful motoring and some very interesting hard left then hard right turns 'cause there were rocks to be avoided. Finally, entered a gorge that led us to the East-West Channel and the chosen spot. By the time the rally really started on Friday (we arrived Thursday) there were over 30 boats participating, and there was plenty of room in the Channel for all of us.

On Friday, we joined three other dinghies and puttered around for about five hours through areas where small craft can go -- but I'd never venture. Rocky channels, open lakes, and rivers that were blasted by the US/Canadian governments to make room for Roosevelt to visit on one of his trips north. Also visited (as noted by Jaye -- thanks for keeping everyone posted) a small church that serves the whole of McGregor Bay's summer cottagers. The only way to get around is by boat, so the "parking lot" is a series of docks to which the congregaton ties up on Sunday mornings. We had to refill the gas tank twice, and were glad for two breaks (one for lunch and the other at the church) because there were three adults, and two dogs sharing my little dinghy.

This was like summer camp for adults -- activities which you could join in or not -- cocktails each evening either on shore or on boats, and the final night a hot dog roast (the BEST hotdogs from Chicago) and sing along before everyone retreated and prepared to leave early the next morning. An abundance of caution, I followed one of the early departures out until we were in clear water.

We had a blast

Update (from Jaye)

Hi all, just heard from Melissa - she has no internet, and won't for about another week, so she asked me to let everyone know she's fine, back in Killarney after a wonderful rally in the back country. She and James and Ellen are having a great time and the scenery is gorgeous. They smugly told us they're sitting around in jackets and sweatshirts this evening (as I'm typing, here in Annapolis we're expecting low 90s tomorrow, and humid). She has stories to tell, and no doubt photos to show, when she's back in the land of electronic communication. (This is a no-so-subtle prod to remind her to post about dinghy races and why there are funky little churches in out-of-the-way corners in Canada ... )

Last Day in Little Current

Today will be filled with re-provisioning and getting ready for an extended time out of the harbor. Little Current is the primary port for supplies here in the North Channel -- Killarney as you may remember from last year's blog is a very small community.

The cruise ship is back as of 0730 today -- she departs later for Mackinaw Island. The Canadian equivalent to homeland security has increased it's visible presence -- on the water and the streets -- our understanding is this happens each time the ship docks. Other than that, her impact on the town is seen only in more people wandering into shops and taking pictures of the cruisers who are taking pictures of the cruise ship. Guess the other side of the fence always holds more interest.

The weather continues to vary -- this morning it was pouring rain, now it's just overcast, and later today it's supposed to become gusty. But tomorrow will be fine (if the weather gods are right)

No new pictures to share -- but will have lots after the excursion into MacGregor Bay.

Little Current!

Pulling into Little Current last week -- a large cruise ship was docked right in front of the fuel/pump out. But I did a bang-up job coming in -- and then really messed up getting into my slip because the "little current" of about 6 knots caught me sideways -- almost took out the electric tower at the top of my slip. Hey, what to you want?

At least I didn't hit anyone -- others weren't so lucky over the next couple of days. Several sideways boats taking off boarding ladders, spot lights etc. Little yelling -- what good does that do anyway? And a lot of foot action by other boaters serving as pushers -- you do get exercise doing this cruising stuff.

The bridge at Little Current and the cruise ship leaving the day after I arrived. This is certainly a cruisers' town! Caters to all of us -- with good provisioning, lots to do, and a couple of good restuarants.

Each morning at 0900, there is a Cruisers' Net -- where the news, weather, and "today in history" is broadcast. Then boats in the area check in with locations and any information they may have. Yesterday, 145 boats called in from various locations around the broadcast area. It's fun to meet people this way.

The MacMan Race finished here on Saturday -- these are racers from Mackinaw Island (many of whom had just completed the Chicago Mac race) and from the North Channel. Mackinaw to Manitoulin Island (Little Current) -- followed by parties which are still going on. In fact, sitting here having breakfast in the Anchor Inn I am surrounded by racers still reliving their exploits!

Wednesday, James and Ellen will join me in Little Current. Probably out of touch from then til after the third of August while we venture into the more remote areas of the North Channel.

JC left yesterday with their grandchildren on-board for a week's cruise -- I'll miss their company, and hope to see them on the water later. But will certainly see them at the Annapolis Sailboat Show this fall. Another lady skipper pulled into the docks yesterday afternoon -- from Michigan -- like me she is waiting for crew now that her friends from Lake Superior have left. So there is no issue with people to talk and visit with!

Benjamins, Bell Cove, and Little Current

I'm now in Little Current -- and here for a week to re-provision and do chores. It's a nice town with great marina facilities. Named "little" current for the changing current through cut -- yesterday coming in it was running 2/3 knots -- by the time I docked it was at 4/5 -- and later as boats careened off each other it reached almost 8 knots. This morning, it has reversed direction and is running about 2/3 knots again.

In the interim, Jerry, Cheryl and I explored more of the Benjamins including some very adventuresome "gunkholing" where boats weave their way between the rocks and find "just the right place".

NOT YOURS TRUELY!!

On Tuesday, we left the Benjamins and headed east toward the Bay of Islands -- about fifteen miles and anchored at Bell Cove on Great La Cloche Island. Deep water right up to shore (33' plus) so we put out a lot of scope, and settled in for a lovely afternoon.

Went ashore where we found some fossils -- and a great place to hike.

The Benjamins

Left Gore Bay on Sunday, then motored to the Benjamin Islands in "buddy boat" with my friends on JC. About fifteen miles of great motoring

To get "inside" the Benjamins, you have to weave your way by the Sows and Pigs -- needless to say, I followed JC just like a duckling hangs on it's mom's tail feathers.

At anchor, in a beautiful cove on the northeast side of South Benjamin Island. Charlee and I anchored on the south side last year -- also nice, but I would recommend this even more! Ended up with 27 boats here by the second evening.

Jerry and Cheryl from JC. We hiked the hills, picked blueberries, and thoroughly exhausted the Chessie dog -- but she loved the island and the other boating dogs who were spending time there.

Looking down from the top of the hill at the anchorage and to North Benjamin Island in the background.

Leaving Gore Bay

IF -- and that is a big if -- the weather holds as forecast -- I will leave Gore Bay tomorrow morning in the company of new friends across the dock, and head out to the Benjamin Islands to drop an anchor for a couple of days!

So, I could be -- read will be -- without internet connection for several days -- probably through Tuesday.

Charlee and I went to South Benjamin last year -- this time, we are planning on tucking in between south and north Benjamin Islands. The entry looks pretty straight forward, and my friends will drop anchor first then come over and help me to get in.

It's all of sixty degrees for a high today -- rained on and off -- so that is why the big IF.

Gore Bay Continued

Yesterday was on and off -- sunny one minute and threatening the next. So I just hung around the Marina and visited with neighbors on the dock.

The couple across the dock from me are on a Lord Nelson 35 -- they are from Michigan, have lived aboard for several years including six years in the Caribbean and are now summer cruising in the North Channel and winter land cruising around the south. Delightful people -- hope to see them some more before I leave the area.

We trooped over to the end of the Marina for breakfast -- sat in the sun, and chatted with all sorts of people including a lady who is circumnavigating the North Channel in a kayak all by herself. Talk about self-reliance!

As the day progressed more of the large cruisers came in -- apparently it was pretty blowy out there -- so the dock looks like the smaller end of the Miami Power Boat Show. I think they are leaving today to head back to Michigan.

I've been invited tonite to fresh whitefish -- right off the Purvis when she returns this afternoon -- by a Canadian couple who make Gore Bay their summer home. You meet the nicest people! In the interim, it's still chilly -- fleece weather without the wind, fleece and windbreakers when it starts to blow. Even the locals are moaning about the late start to summer.

Pictures around the area to be posted tomorrow. I don't plan to leave until Sunday -- that's when the weather will clear.

Gore Bay Ramblings

Purvis Fisheries -- established in the late 1800's goes out every morning around 5:30 and returns early afternoon to unload it's haul and transport it to the Gore Bay airport and then to major cities like Toronto and New York. It's docked right across the fairway from Sonador -- thus, I know the time she leaves -- but worry not, even tho' the sun is up in the sky by then, I just roll over and take a few more minutes before Chessie insists that we get outside.

Downtown, which is quite active for a small community, includes this wall of murals -- painted by the local citizens.

Gore Bay is the head of government for the Manitoulin Island -- thus there is a court house, jail, and other signs of prosperity associated with a seat of local government. The jail is now a marvelous little museum featuring works by local artists and artifacts of the town's history.

The town Marina deserted yesterday afternoon when everyone scooted out of here on the promise of a nice sail. I'm hanging around just 'cause.

Before they all left, these were our neighbors across the finger pier -- Chessie thought Mike (the person) was okay but she really had a hissy fit about Tom (the cat) who was a most pleasant fellow for a cat. They were sailing in party with fellow Michiganders from the Detroit area -- this is prime destination for many of the Lake Huron citizens who make it a point to come up here for years on end.

And, I can see why. This is the ridge across the Bay from the Marina -- probably a good destination for a hike if I can motivate my feet and legs -- and the weather cooperates. Today it is raining a little, so the tromping around will be limited.

This view is looking north out the bay from my dinghy which I finally got to work with the help and encouragement of dock neighbors -- turns out I am just a klutz who floods small engines instead of starting them!

And, this is the other end of the Marina -- where you can grab pizza to take out as well as fish and chips. Not a bad life!

First Pictures/Impressions of Gore Bay

As I left Blind River, this sailboat was heading the same direction as I -- they had a great sail over to Gore Bay!

And I had a great motor. Although later in the day the seas apparently built to almost four feet, while I was out there it wasn't bad at all. This is looking east toward Little Current.

I'm still startled at how big this is up here. Although I could always see land, it was often just a bump on the horizon.

At the Gore Bay Marina, they have pulled out all the stops to become a "destination" -- and with justification. Not only are the facilities really nice, but the surroundings are spectacular. Note the blue sky!!!

And then there are the really "big" boats that come calling. This one from Kingston Jamaca (sp?) -- and just now clearing Canadian Customs (probably after being in US waters, since BD and I saw her at anchor near Drummond Island, MI.