Keeping Busy in Cheboygan

While commerce continues to sail Lake Huron outside their door ...
BD and Ric keep busy working on their home ...
and Chessie helps by eating the sand under our feet ...
we moved almost 4 tons of rock over two days ... some of it pea gravel and some these larger drain stones to make sure that the foundation stays dry ... cruising doesn't prepare you for this, but it felt good to do some physical labor while waiting for new crew.

and, then there is the reward of a large fire on the beach to close out a day of work and accomplishment.

Cheboygan Images

Ric, BD, and Charlee out to dinner in Cheboygan at one of the locals' favorite spots -- a drive in with window service et al -- we didn't do that 'cause Chessie came with us, and the concept of Chessie, food, window service, and us just didn't compute.
I'm tied up across the river from the new Coast Guard ice breaker Mackinaw -- the retired Mackinaw is now a visitor museum in the city of the same name (only 15 miles from here). I'd like to report that the USCG is keeping busy even while tied to the sea wall.

The view across Lake Huron from Ric and BD's home (which they are making great progress on building -- passed the electrical and other inspections -- almost ready for dry wall). The island in the distance is called Bois Blanc -- but the locals say Bob lo -- and us mariners soon learn to say the same.

Here through Labor Day -- then heading out of here to Mackinac Island, and then over to Lake Michigan. Like every town/city I've stopped in, the people are incredibly friendly and helpful. And, I continue to find that Chessie and Sonador will always draw a crowd.

Parade of Lights

If a river freezes over in December -- then when do you have the parade of lights? In August, of course -- and last evening I got to sit on the stern of Sonador and watch dinghies and larger power boats come down the river from Cheboygan to past this marina and out with lights blazing and country music playing. Earlier in the day -- after a really earth rattling thunder storm passed by, there were kayak races on the river and an antique car rally in the downtown.

Today, it's downright chilly here -- a soup for lunch day since it is too cold for much else. Have spent a couple hours (at least) each day with BD and/or Ric. Tomorrow, they will help me transport my outboard motor to a "fix-it" shop so that at least I have the possibility of anchoring out again and not having to row Chessie ashore.

The break from constantly moving is good -- and I'm meeting lots of nice boaters and others who are willing to give rides to town (it's only four blocks so I can walk) -- and Chessie is liking the idea of just jumping off the boat to go for walks (I have to lift her back on-board since the dock is too low for her to jump)

Organizing pictures for a couple more photo posts before I leave here right after Labor Day.

Cheboygan, MI

Spent the last couple of days with BD and Ric and Charlee -- and now, on Friday evening, am back on a very quiet Sonador. Will try to get the outboard motor back in working order here, replenish supplies, and, oh, by the way purchase charts and c-map chips for Lake Michigan.

Truth be known, didn't know whether I'd really get this far so the investment in the Lake Michigan information seemed premature -- but no longer. My friend Susan will join me around Labor Day and then we are off on a water adventure again.

Until then, BD wants to go hiking on trails near their new home, maybe bike riding, and just hang around Cheboygan -- which in and of itself sounds like a good vacation endeavor. Both BD and Ric send their best to the PAM crowd!

And, into Michigan -- actually, not quite

Chessie and I at the Benjamins ... short leash after she fell in the water twice trying to get around the rocks
Sonador at anchor in the Benjamins -- please note large rock in the background -- it marks the entrance to this particular bay
The Inn at Meldrum -- for a small town at least 8 hours from Toronto it's trying to make it's mark, but.....
... the marina at Meldrum

This fishing vessel arrived around 11 p.m., full of white fish destined for fancy restuarants in Toronto and New York City -- we slept through the whole thing.

Leaving here, we went back out into the North Channel and arrived at Drummond Island this afternoon -- met boaters who actually went aground and ruined their underbody on the way to our current harbor.

It's cool -- no make that cold. But clear skies and quiet winds for tomorrow's passage across Lake Huron. We've called Ric and BD and they will meet us in Cheboygan tomorrow afternoon.

Although this isn't the end of my trip, I can't tell you how beautiful this is and how certain I am that next summer will be even better.

The Benjamins!!!

From Kagawong, we traveled about 20 miles north into the North Channel to the Benjamin Islands, this is Charlee at the top of the first rock we climbed... looking south out to the channel
At the water level, the story is a little different -- those with good eyes xcan see the mast behind the rocks -- yup, that's right, boats go into these little narrow channels and tie to the rocks on both sides. Not yours truely, at least not yet.
Looking north from our anchorage, we spent time with the couple on the sail boat -- who by the way, swam over to introduce themselves before inviting us to wine and cheese later that same evening.
Those of you who know Chessie, know that she would not willingly wade in any puddle, but give her water that she can drink directly from the great bay ... and she has become a fresh water wading dog!
In case you doubt the beauty of this place!

Little Currrent to the Benjamin Islands

From Little Current we went to Kagawong -- a small community with a great soul! The little church has the prow of a small craft that went down just north of here during a storm not twenty years ago...
... and then it has wonderful trails leading to these falls -- Chessie even waded in and sat down -- much to her surprize her tail got wet. Gotta figure these dogs learn very slowly.
From the top of the bridal veil falls -- it was beautiful, remote, and enjoyed by everyone we met on the trail
The marina at Kagawong -- one thing we noted was the ice cream cones available at the marina office and the extraordinarily friendly people on the docks. Kids spent the whole afternoon jumping, diving, and belly-flopping off the high dock in the right of this picture.
Kagawong proper -- the little chapel is to the left, the general store is behind it, and the marina is on the right.

Back in the good ol' US of A

We checked into US Customs at Drummond Island Michigan this afternoon -- after a rolling ride on the last part of the North Channel that I'll experience this year. (pictures tonight)

Since we left Little Current, we've been to the Benjamin Islands (pink granite, rocky, steep shores -- and just beautiful), to Meldrum Bay (the last township on Manitoulin Island -- population 48) and now at Drummond.

From here, we cross the northern end of Lake Huron, and go to Cheboygan Michigan, where Charlee heads west to see her grand child, and I wait for Sooz to join me on Labor Day. We'll do Mackinac Island, Les Cheneaux Islands (north end of Huron), and then over to Little Traverse Bay on Lake Michigan (gotta get some new charts)

I AM coming back next year -- so little has been seen and experienced in this beautiful country!

At Little Current and in the North Channel

This is taken from Sonador at a slip in Byng Inlet, the nights have been glorious -- and when anchoring we can even see the Milky Way.
A commercial fisherman leaving Byng to head out into the Georgian Bay -- whitefish is very popular -- fish and chips at almost any town
Anchored in the Bustards -- Chessie wishes there were other dogs to play with -- but Charlee and I found wild blueberries which we are still enjoying several days later
This is Collins Inlet on the way to Killarney -- wish I could have taken pictures of the narrow channels, but at that point I was too nervous! Yes, even after weeks of getting around, the rocks still give me a little bit of heart burn -- probably a good thing cause we keep hearing about boats sinking or at least doing significant damage!
This is looking down the waterfront at Killarney -- a small town of less than 500 population -- first road to Killarney was built in late 1960's.

We left Point au Baril, went to Byng Inlet, then "outside" to Collins Inlet and Killarney, from there to Bay Finn, and onto Little Current where we are taking a lay day to provision and plot Charlee's last week on the boat.

We wanted to stay in Bay Finn, but couldn't get the anchor to hold and there were really violent storms brewing, so we crept back out and blasted our way to Little Current -- arriving about two minutes before the storm.

Lot's more pictures, but they will have to wait until I get to Michigan late next week. From here we go to the Benjamin Islands in the North Channel, then to three small towns on Manitoulin Island. Then to Drummand Island in Michigan and over Lake Huron to Mackinaw City or some other port.

Rnadom Pictures

A very popular way of getting around up here -- taken at Parry Sound as we fueled up.
Leaving Parry Sound to head to Killbear
Anchored at Killbear
That is NOT blue sky behind us at Hopewell Bay
But here we are at a little more peaceful moment

A few Pictures on Georgian Bay

Charlee and Chessie first day on Beausoleil Island -- climbing the rocky paths to see what we could see
Hopewell Bay -- Looking out to the small craft channel and the way we came in through the rocks
Original stone creatures encountered in Hopewell Bay ...
... and our creation left on a rocky promontory for other sailors to view

Point au Baril Station public dock -- we bought fresh corn and good meats at the local hardware store, and had great fish and chips from a stand on the major highway not half a mile from our dock!

Byng Inlet, Georgian Bay

More just words for right now. We've been having a great adventure -- Charlee claims I will be the queen of rocks when we are all done -- let's hope that's true!

After Parry Sound, we headed out to Killbear Park and anchored in the Kilcoursie Bay surrounded by sandy beaches, woods, and oh yes they said black bears. Had trouble getting the plow anchor to hold in the depth (almost 40 feet) so we deployed the CQR with 50 feet of chain and about 120 feet of rhoad. It held, but getting it up by hand in the morning wasn't much fun.

Short run to a place called Hopewell Bay -- where we found a great anchorage, good holding, and fun area to explore. (Again signs of bear, though we didn't see any -- thank goodness). There were stone "men" on one of the cliffs (just rubble stone stacked so they look like people from the water). Rowing Chessie ashore is getting a little easier, but when the wind picks up it is a loosing battle. Stayed in Hopewell two nights because of weather. So we built our own stone "dog" to add to the surroundings.

Leaving Hopewell we were hoping to get as far as Byng Inlet by running on the outside of the small craft channel -- I really didn't think I could do many more sharp rights then lefts with only a few inches of clearance. The weather convinced us otherwise -- so we turned inland and headed up to Point au Baril Station -- a small community about nine miles up an inlet and stayed at the one town dock in shallow water. There is a light house at the end of the inlet (as you go into Georgian Bay) so named because they used to put barrels on the points of land to guide the ships in.

Today we went on the outside route -- about 25 miles -- in lots of water with no rocks. Our alternative was a channel called Hangdog Channel which looks to be replete with rocks, sharp turns and skinny water. We are now in Byng Inlet at a marina -- showers, laundry, and internet.

Tomorrow (assuming weather holds) we head to the Bustard Islands for a night of anchoring out. Then onto Killarney where we will again stay at a marina. Then into the north channel.

Plan to have Charlee in Michigan by the 22nd of September so she can fly back to Reno. Then I will wait for Sooz to arrive later in the month for some cruising around Mackinaw and Little Traverse Bay.

Having a great time. Will try to load pictures later this evening -- but I need to be selective so you all don't get bored and I don't break the internet connections!

Georgian Bay to Parry Sound

Going to post words alone right now -- will try pictures a little later.

After leaving the Trent Severn (a total of 44 locks including the Big Shute and the two lift locks), Cathy and I went to Penetang through some "interesting rocks" and thankfully very well marked.

We didn't get into town, but the next day I was able to catch a ride with a lady on the dock -- did get groceries, fresh corn and blue berries, and all other essentials. Cathy caught an early ride to Toronto, then Charlee arrived. Next day Charlee and I headed out to one of the Parks Canada islands just east of Penetang (about ten miles) and made our way into a crowded but very nice anchorage at the top of Beausoleil Bay.

Spent two days there -- rowing ashore cause the dad ratted outboard won't start! Hiked trails, wore Chessie out , and managed to just enjoy. A fellow looper gave us a ride to Honey Harbor -- where we got ice cream and walked around.

Left Beausoleil early in the morning and made our way to Henry's at Sans Souci (about 27 miles) -- a crowded restaurant which is noted for it's pan fried pickerel and chips (which we took advantage of at dinner time). Not only are small boats coming and going at all hours from lunch onwards, but there are sea planes that land for a bite to eat.

Yesterday, we came the short route (but the puckering route) to Parry Sound (town) and today will head out into the sound to find an anchorage at Killbear Park.

Don't expect to have internet access until the end of next week -- but will try whenever we get close to civilization. (Just to let you know, the town of Parry Sound is the largest community on the east coast of Georgian Bay = population six thousand five hundred)

Rains most days at night or late afternoon -- cool in the mornings and at night -- but can get into the 80's during the day in the hot sun.

Chessie is thriving

Voice mail is horribly expensive up here -- and not reliable either, but messages can be picked up from time to time.

So then we tried it

Looks rather benign early in the morning -- doesn't she?
But you try this with the aft end of your boat hanging off a big cage, and nothing you can do but hold your breath, hope that thundering in your chest will not rock the boat, and, oh by the way, "don't move around in the boat once we are underway" This is taken before we start down the far side of the chute
Do you suppose that big boat ahead of us will stop us if we start to fall? If was just the two of us, carefully brought into the carriage and then lowered onto our keels for the ride of a life time.

No, this is not at the end of Big Chute, there were some exciting currents there -- but not this. This is instead the Georgian Bay side of the last lock. Those boats are waiting to go into the lock, that water is making the ride down from the lock even more exciting -- on Thursday morning, I finally got my nerve up to take this on and head into the Bay.

This may be the last posting for quite a while -- we are getting into even more remote country, but I will try my best to upload something.

Cathy is home, Charlee is here -- and the sun is shining!

Just when you thought it was safe out there!

Pictures of the Big Chute -- a very unique way to get across the land impediment to continuing on the Trent Severn -- watched this for hours while the boat was repaired. And got a couple of pictures while we were on it the next day -- but I think this captures the essence of the ride!

Just to let you know

Am in Penetang -- Charlee has joined me, Cathy has left -- and we are getting ready to head out tomorrow morning to begin the exploration of Georgian Bay. Didn't know, or didn't remember, that this is a Canadian three day holiday, so we should have plenty of competition for anchorages.

Having trouble getting pictures posted -- but will continue to try -- and can't guarantee that we'll have any access as we move further away from civilization as we know it.

Minor hiccup along the way, lost my port throttle cable -- snapped right below the helm connection -- got it repaired right away (new cable) -- but it was interesting driving through rocks and narrow channels with only one engine!

Still having a blast!