More Memories -- Which I'd like to Just Forget

Don't exactly know why it is that I get to add spice to everything I do -- or maybe it's just the fates deciding that I've not had enough excitement for a summer.

Last Sunday, August 20th, I left Cheboygan right before 7 a.m. -- motoring into flat seas and winds predicted from the south west less than ten knots.  That is easily doable ... waves predicted to be less than two feet.  And, NOAA was right about that at least until I was a few miles west of the Mackinaw bridge -- then the waves began to build, the winds to increase, and I knew that someone out there was making my life more interesting than it needs to be.

At the abandoned light house, where Lake Michigan opens to the south all the way to Chicago, the waves were not only more than 2 feet but also coming from every direction except the sky.  After the turn south, the waves settled into three feet plus on the bow -- once again, not the best but doable.

Ah, but they weren't done with me!  A short time later, I glanced back to check on my dinghy.  AND, the dinghy had decided to try to abandon ship.  I normally carry the dinghy on the swim platform, on its side, standing upright.  The waves had obviously filled it with water, and pulled it sort of off the swim platform so that it was acting like a sea anchor.  I was able to get it almost back on the platform, but not in the appropriate place so it was still collecting water.  I called the Coast Guard to let them know that one of the oars had broken loose -- didn't want someone to find it an wonder if there was an accident to report.  Not twenty minutes later, my progress was getting increasingly difficult and I was worried that it would break loose.  So another call to the Coast Guard -- these were not SOS, just VHF conversations -- we talked through options including whether I thought I could cut the dinghy loose (no way, no how in these seas.) 

I pressed on for another twenty five nautical miles into building winds and seas, and at a much slower speed than I normally travel.  Made the 3 p.m. bridge into Charlevoix harbor -- preceded by a call to the Coast Guard to thank them and report my successful arrival -- and tied up at the City Marina.

Sophie deserves big kudos -- that was eight plus hours of not fun, and only twice did she come up to sit between my legs and seek comfort.  The other parts of the trip were spent buried in my bed linens, wondering what the blazes Mom was thinking.  (Mom was having similar thoughts to be honest)

I have to give AVON dinghies praise for taking the punishment of five hours or more of pounding water straining at the places I tie the dinghy to the boat -- they weren't designed to take that type of punishment but did.

So the dinghy is here safely, I'm down one oar, and it took a few hours to get my heart rate back to normal -- but life is good now.

My friend Susan came over on Monday, and we've been touring the area by car and have no fixed plans for more boating as the weather is really up and down -- today is the first sunny, and not blustery day since last Sunday -- and you see how that turned out.

Back in Michigan, After a Great Summer and lots of memories

Left Hilton Beach on Monday, August 14th, to return to US territory and motored almost 25 nautical miles to Detour Village, Michigan.  On the way there, once in US waters I checked in with US Customs and cleared to come home.

Detour is a jumping off point for heading either direction, so visited with boats on the dock and then had dinner with John and Bobbie from ANDRALUS.  

Underway across Lake Huron a little before 8 a.m. -- at first there were some rolling seas, but within a few miles of shore it settled down for the 37 nautical mile trip to Cheboygan, Michigan and Duncan Bay Boat Club.  I'll stay here until some day this weekend, and then find that weather window which will allow me to motor to Charlevoix.

In the interim, there is time for visiting, reading, a little painting, and just sort of settling back into a mostly shore based routine.

But there are some pictures that I just down loaded that I must share from earlier this summer:

From blueberry hill at Usual Reason Cove, looking down on Sonador at the second anchorage

A little more perspective of the same, that's THYME HYSSOP WRY and FAIRY TALE

Sophie, resting in the blueberries -- a quart collected in less than an hour!

Pictures the End of July and First of AugustI

INUKSUK at Eagle Island

Sophie patiently waiting for Mom to get the motor started for our trip to shore

Hotham Island harbor

Mt. McBean at the other end of Hotham harbor

Heading West if the Winds Will Cooperate

As planned headed out on Monday morning to join CLASS ACT and FAIRY TALE at Aikens Island -- my first time in this anchorage which is just east of John Island and south of the Whales Back Channel (15.67 nautical miles).  It is open to the south east, but a pleasant place to sit for a couple of days and explore the area.  We dinghied into Moiles Harbor which is just around the corner, a beautiful location but notorious for the number of dead heads which are lying in wait to snag an anchor and chain.  NO THANK YOU -- I did that two years ago and don't need to go through that again. First evening happy hour on FAIRY TALE, second on SONADOR.  

Then on Wednesday, August 9th, we lifted anchor to begin heading west with our destination being Long Point Cove.  High winds were predicted for the next couple of days, and it is well protected.  Ran south of John Island to a passage north near La Seur Island, and then into Long Point Cove (11.89 nautical miles)  FAIRY TALE hosted happy hour for several GLCC boats in the harbor, and then had to pull up anchor the next morning to head back toward Little Current (their home port.)  CLASS ACT and SONADOR stayed one more day, hoping to stretch it to two -- but the weather promised to get nasty.

So, on Friday morning we raised anchor to begin the 40 nautical mile trek to Thessalon Marina.  Now, the winds were supposed to be light out of the north west.  They were, in fact, strong out of the east -- and, since we're heading west we were "thrilled" to have following seas.  NOT!  I traveled the most erratic route possible, surfing off one wave to the south, then wallowing up the next to the north.  For two plus hours I had to hand steer standing at the helm.  At least Sophie seemed to be satisfied, for she stayed plastered to the bed the whole way.  A little over half way there, the waves settled down somewhat, the winds definitely quieted down, and we were treated to an auto pilot ride into Thessalon harbor.  Had dinner in the marina lounge (cooked by CLASS ACT and SONADOR) and planned on leaving the next morning after breakfast.

Met the most interesting Australian man at Thessalon -- single handing the Loop in an Island Packet (mast was stepped in NY and shipped to Mobile, AL).  After getting to the east coast of Florida next spring, he's shipping the boat to the Med where he will take the rivers and canals of Europe for two years up through France, to Paris, onto Amsterdam, then east and south on the Rhine and Danube and ending up in the Black Sea.  Then, undaunted he plans to sail to the coast of Africa, cross the Atlantic, through the Panama Canal, and back to Australia.  Now that is an ADVENTURE!!

We departed Thessalon as planned on Friday the 11th heading west toward St. Joseph's Island and the harbor of Hilton Beach (about 16 nautical miles).  The winds were gusty but on the forward quarter and bow, so SONADOR had a very smooth ride all the way in.  Friends on BASIC BOAT live in the community, so we wanted to visit with Ann and Jorma (who a week ago had a knee replaced) and I had never been to this side of the island.  This is a very nice marina and small community.  Staying here until Monday (at least that's the plan now) when the winds are supposed to calm down for a couple of days.  Then, I'll head to DeTour to make the jump back across Lake Huron and into Cheboygan.

July Into August -- the adventure continues

Lest I forget that into each adventure a little challenge must fall, as I was backing out of Little Current on July 27th the young dock hand blithely tossed my stern dock line into the water.  Now, I have line cutters which worked perfectly but because I had to head back into the slip under power I now had a line wrapped around my prop.

Boo Hiss!!

I informed the other boats of my little flotilla (SPIRIT and CLASS and THYME) that I'd be a while.  Overheard on the VHF by Alan Jackson of ENCORE who came to my rescue.  ENCORE was heading toward Little Current for the evening, so they came a little faster than planned and Alan dove on the prop.  I now have a memento of the event and am more convinced than ever that Little Current just isn't a destination that I favor.

So I followed THYME out of town to the nearby anchorage of Rous Island -- a well protected bay only 4 nautical miles from the docks at Little Current.   We were joined by LEADING EDGE and GUNKHOLER -- getting together on the latter for happy hour.

The next morning, LEADING EDGE and THYME HYSSOP WRY and SONADOR all headed north east to back to Sturgeon Cove.  Found it virtually empty, so dropped the hook and planned on a peaceful couple of days.  With, of course, more blueberry picking.  I now have more than two quarts even with lacing my breakfast yogurt with them.  One of the great advantages of travelling with THYME is that Ron is an avid fisherman -- so dinner that evening consisted of fresh bass cooked to perfection by JoEllen and consumed with relish by Rod, Alison, and myself.

Our little paradise was shattered the next morning when three smaller power boats tied to shore decided to crank up the music on their radios and began to party long before noon.  Now it is understandable that this is their water territory, but the level was just annoying.  I was nominated to be the ambassador to request politely if they could turn it down -- the blunt answer was NO, and WHAT DID I NOT UNDERSTAND ABOUT NO.  So, plan B.  We raised anchor and went to the other end of the Cove where we thankfully could hear nothing above the lapping of waves and the wind in the trees.

Happy hour on LEADING EDGE with some of their friends, and plans to leave early the next morning heading west.  As I raised the anchor I was treated to the sight of a young deer wading in the water about two hundred feet from me -- she wasn't even disturbed by the dinghy motor as I took Sophie ashore at the other end of the Cove.

We settled on Eagle as our destination, joining CLASS ACT and ENCORE -- SPIRIT OF ALOHA had decided to  head home so they were making tacks back to Harbor Island, MI.  I hosted happy hour on SONADOR after some very strong thunder storms headed north and south of Eagle but left us in bright sunshine.  Dinghy explorations the next day with Mel and Susan, and a swim in the brisk (probably low 70) water, followed by happy hour on CLASS ACT.

The next morning, the first of August we lifted anchor and headed north into the McBean Channel and around into Hotham Island.  A secure anchorage at the west end, and a couple of days of simply relaxing with Sophie able to go ashore close to my location.  And, of course, more blueberries -- not many but enough to replenish my larder.

On the third, we came into Gore Bay -- through rough quartering seas and winds that didn't die as predicted.  But, here safely with CLASS ACT, FAIRY TALE, and THYME.  Dinner at Buoy's, farmers' market on Friday morning, dinner at BJ's, more staying put as Saturday turned into a test of high winds and scattered rain, and dinner at Buoy's again. 

As I write this on Sunday, the others have all headed out and are already anchored.  I'm staying until tomorrow morning getting last minute provisions done, paying bills, and generally just relaxing.  Sophie has had some stomach problems, but I talked with her vet this morning and I'm to put her on a diet of rice for the next five days then slowly introduce her regular food.  We'll see how that works.

Pictures later -- assuming I have some interesting ones.  And, probably at least a week or ten days before the next entry as we work our way west,

Pictures after Gore Bay 2

Looking east across Usual Reason Cove from one of the blueberry expeditions

Sophie resting after hiking the portage to Baie Finn

Baie Finn and the gang after the hike

Second anchor in Usual Reason -- it's deep all the way up to that rock face

Looking back over the anchorage toward the west

Pictures after Gore BayL

Looking out on Sturgeon Cove from the point

Sophie believes that shade and grass are made just for her

Taken from the same point of land that the top picture was, this looks out over the entrance to Sturgeon Cove toward the La Cloche Mountains

After Gore Bay

Sat out winds and rain at Gore Bay for almost a full week, but on the 17th of July the sun came out, the winds died, and it was time to go.

Traveled north east up to Sturgeon Cove -- a well protected anchorage that runs along the north side of Great La Cloche Island.  From the anchorage, you can look north to the La Cloche Mountains -- and, if you are lucky you can see eagles and bears.  I saw the former, not the latter.  It is tricky to get in, but a good holding bottom and plenty of room for lots of boats.  And, a good place for both blueberry picking and dog running.  What could be better!

I now have about a quart of small, delicious blueberries picked from various locations -- and consumed with a creamy yogurt and granola for breakfast many a morning.  

After three days in Sturgeon, we decided to head up into McGregor Bay -- the most remote of the anchorages that I'll see this summer.  The Bay is north of the Killarney Mountain range, and is sided by a provincial park (think bears, wolves, and other critters of the north).  There are no marks on the channels, just rocks everywhere that one learns to recognize from year to year -- thank goodness for modern technology.  So with a chart plotter and "tracks" created where ever one has successfully transited a difficult spot it's relatively easy to get back to Usual Reason Cove on a clear day.

There are a few cottages in McGregor, but only a couple can be seen across the water from Usual Reason.  More blueberry picking, and time ashore.  We went about two miles west in dinghies to a "portage" which links McGregor with Baie Finn -- hiking across with Sophie leading the way.  Then turned around, and headed back.  On the way there, the winds were in our face so we got relatively wet but on the way back the winds had died somewhat and were behind us.  I moved Sonador to another, more protected, area of Usual Reason before the big storms hit on Saturday.  Lightning, thunder, winds gusting into the upper twenties, and plenty of anxious moments when you hope the anchor will hold.  It did, we survived, and enjoyed an evening with friends aboard FAIRY TALE.  

Our last day there, we climbed the nearby rocks to pick more blueberries -- they were so thick that even from several yards away the low bushes were blue.  YUM.

Then on the 25th we moved into Little Current in anticipation of more strong winds and rain.  Little Current is the oxymoron of the North Channel, very seldom is the current much below three knots -- which may not seem like much except when you are trying to hold your position while the swing bridge opens to let the traffic thru.

On the 25th the Cruisers' Net hosted a talk on the fossils of Manitoulin Island (which some hundreds of millions of years ago was actually somewhere near the equator) and then a pot luck dinner in the pavilion at the Little Current Town Docks.  As predicted, the 26th was a washout -- but a ride to the grocery store, and dinner at the Anchor Inn made for an enjoyable day.  

Right now, I am waiting for word from one of the local boat shops on the fate of my dinghy outboard which is giving me fits again.  I'll borrow a "spare" from Bill Matley (SPIRIT of ALOHA) while mine is either being repaired or is condemned to being junked.

Later this morning, we'll leave (SPIRIT, CLASS ACT, SONADOR) for South Benjamin.  To hopefully be joined by LEADING EDGE and THYME HYSSOP WRY.

Pictures in separate postings.

Pictures (2) from Early July

Taxi Service at Long Point

Sophie trying to look regal at Long Point

Harbor at Eagle -- note Sonador in the far center

Ashore after a long dinghy exploration at the sandy beach at Eagle

Pictures from Early JulyS

Sonador at Long Point Cove

Exploring Long Point -- this is not the entrance just a good dinghy channel

Blueberry picking at Long Point

Looking out north to the main land

The problem with travel in Canadian waters is that data coverage is iffy depending on where I am at any given moment.  Right now, I'm in Gore Bay using their internet service -- and on the phone with Verizon trying to straighten out my ability to use both the phone and the "jet pack" for internet. Hopefully that is done!!!

Now, back to the Adventures of Sonador.  

When I last wrote I was heading to the Wilderness Rally at Harbor Island -- that's still in Michigan but right on the Canadian border.  We "rallied" there last year also, and it's a good setting for thirty odd boats to gather, hear discussions as varied as using solar power, tying to shore, best reads, and best recipes.  All interspersed with meals. libations, and good times visiting on shore.

The only problem was the weather -- it rained on and off for the whole time -- and not just gentle rains, true downpours.  Neither Sophie nor I were happy campers, making the trek to shore in the dinghy, only to get wetter than we would have been had we swam ashore.

On the 3rd of July, we set off across the North Channel to the town of Thessalon, Ontario -- a relatively small town with a good marina, a grocery store, and the essential liquor store (remember you can't bring much into Canada).  Much to my surprise, and to those boats travelling with me, the marina was closed -- that is there was no staff there to greet and help me tie up.  A local boater came to my rescue, and then I helped the next several boats come in.  We had the code for the bathrooms and showers, we were able to plug in for electricity, and we even used the marina lounge for a delightful pot luck that evening.

Out of town by 9 a.m., and off to Long Point Cove -- one of my favorite anchorages.  The seas were very calm, the sun shining and boating was good again.  I was joined by Mel and Susan on CLASS ACT, Ron and Jo on THYME, HYSSOP, RYE, Chris and Diane on GUNKHOLER -- had happy hour on shore, and simply enjoyed the wilderness around us.

We stayed at Long Point for three nights, then took off continuing to head east into the Whalesback and out to Eagle Island -- another good spot for getting Sophie ashore and exploring.  The rain and wind continued for the time we were there; but thanks to CLASS ACT I was enticed to go exploring in the dinghy to another nearby island and to clamber the rocky hills of Eagle looking for blueberries (enough for a handful)

On the 10th, we moved less than 5 miles to South Benjamin Island -- a very protected cove as long as the winds are from the north and east -- which they thankfully were.  My first attempt to take Sophie ashore ended up with her on shore, running free and me in the dinghy trying to find a spot where we could actually get back together.  She thought it was great fun -- I, on the other hand, had my doubts about this arrangement afterall there are bears and other wildlife that city dog has no concept of.  Another blueberry picking adventure (this time with lots) and plans to leave the next morning for Gore Bay.

Woke to dense fog, which appeared to be lifting, so set out for Gore about 7:30.  Within an hour I was in a fog bank, sounding my horn every two minutes as the rules of the road require, slowing to a crawl, and keeping an eagle eye on the radar.  Only had one radar contact, but certainly felt the wake of a large power vessel passing me -- my guess is it was the local fishing tug which plies these waters every day.  Entering Gore Bay harbor was tricky since I still couldn't see much beyond my bow and there is a significant rock break water -- but got around that, into the service dock and finally into a slip.  The fog didn't lift until late that afternoon.  CLASS ACT experienced the same type of crossing, and other boats simply turned back to their anchorages for a few days.

Why travel under those conditions?  Well, the forecast for the next day (the 12th) was for extremely high winds, rain, and just yucky conditions -- and Gore Bay is a delightful town and marina.  I've spent enough time here over the years that I know many of the local boaters and have established a passing friendship with several of them.

So, here we sit -- another gloomy day.  But this morning is the farmers market, and tonight several of us are going to the local theater.  Last evening had dinner with friends, dining on smoked duck and enjoying the change of pace from life on the water.

Plan to depart on Sunday -- weather and the water gods permitting.  I'll try to post pictures later today.

On My Way to the North Channel

 My last evening in Charlevoix for the early summer -- it's been a fun time, filled with Sophie walks, dinners with boating friends, and endless hours of just sitting and looking around me.

This is from my boat looking out at the shore of Round Lake -- the large grey garage structure is just that, but for the many boats that they own.

 And, two days later I've departed Mackinaw City on my way across Lake Huron.  About 44 nautical miles or almost five hours underway.  This is the Round Island Light, across the passage from Mackinaw Island, and ten miles into the trip.  Note the clouds in the distance -- they caught up with me after I had Sonador tied up at the docks at DeTour Village.

Freighter traffic headed west bound -- she is over two miles away from me -- and pretty impressive.

Still in Charlevoix -- at least for a couple more days

 Among other things for which Charlevoix is famous -- the mushroom houses.  These are just three of the homes, designed by a local (didn't finish architecture school) who left his imprint on this charming town.

The top one is one of his first.  They are small, and cute, but I wonder how far cute goes when the roof line is at the top of the front door.

The next is a significant modification to an original -- as far as I can tell little is left of the small house that occupied the same block.  Watched them thatching that roof last year; that really has to be a "lost art" but supposedly will last for eons.  The owners have turned this into a rental, including for special occasions.

And, just a couple of houses away, another of the small houses -- actually it is two stories on the street behind it.  I really appreciate the dedication to keeping these gems as close to original -- note the stacked stone wall fronting this property.



All of these and the dozens more are just a block from Lake Michigan, and are part of my morning explorations with Sophie.

Hoping to pull out of Charlevoix on Thursday or Friday -- looking for that elusive weather window to head around the Straits to Cheboygan, Michigan and prepare to cross Lake Huron almost immediately to head to the wilderness rally.  That will be a sign that boating has actually begun!

Settling in at Charlevoix

 Our morning walks take us through the streets of Charlevoix and out to the Lake -- the big lake that is -- this is the light that marks the entrance to the channel leading from Lake Michigan into Round Lake where we are happily tied to a dock..

Even on a sunny morning, the Lake can look blue grey and cold.  Water temperatures are somewhere in the low 50s right now -- neither fit for man nor beast.











Speaking of beasts.  Sophie has found the perfect place for an afternoon siesta -- on my bunk, in the sun light, head on my pillows.  Not certain why I try to pretend this is my territory not hers.

Last week I received a message from one of my cousins from Kansas -- actually these ladies are all cousins once removed since their mother is my cousin.  Anyway, they are out and about enjoying their time together and showed up in Charlevoix for dinner last evening. It was fun catching up, and hearing their ambitious plans to visit Mackinaw, then tour thru Ontario to New York, down through Philadelphia, then to DC for a couple of days before returning to the mid-west.  

Yeah -- it's boating season again!

I was gently reminded by one of my good friends -- and a blog follower -- that my last posting was in September as I was preparing to head south.

Now, I'm north!

Little to report on the trip north -- except that I have a new car -- a little RAV 4 that does just fine as long as I don't bring my entire household with me.  Sophie still gets her half of the back seat, the passenger front seat is loaded with snacks, maps, and stuff.  And, the rest of the car has the usual packing trimmed down to fit the smaller size.

That requires shopping on this end for many of the staples of life -- but surprise, surprise, Michigan has stores where things like paper towels, dog food, and spices can be purchased.

Arrived in Charlevoix last Saturday -- actually, Boyne City which is at the south end of Lake Charlevoix where I stay with my good friends Donna and Lou.  This has become such a regular part of the trip, that Sophie bounds from the car and immediately heads for the spot on their stairs where she can keep an eye on the comings and goings of the humans in the house.  And, this year she had to keep a sharp eye out as their daughter and her family (husband, three sons) were also in residence to celebrate Donna's birthday which she shares with the middle grand son.  We had a great time, and Sophie made new friends.

Sunday, I began the task of moving all life's necessities out of the car and onto the boat. Slower than last year, but over the course of two days finished getting everything on board, and most of it tucked away.  The advantage of bringing less is that it takes less energy for the initial unpacking.  The disadvantage is that I've made at least two runs to the grocery store 'cause it's been quite awhile since I've had to completely stock up on staples.

On Tuesday morning, Lou helped me move Sonador to our downtown location at the Charlevoix City Marina.  Harbor master Hal and Pat welcomed us back, and Sophie got her regular treat of dog cookie to confirm that we're here.  Caught up with fellow boaters who are also here every year as the season begins, and then returned to the comfort of Donna and Lou's home since it was dropping into the low 40's that night.  Wednesday, I officially moved onboard. 

Over the winter our favorite place for morning coffee on main street burned down, as did another structure in the next block, but other than those two losses, Charlevoix remains a very welcoming, comfortable place to start the summer.

Farmers' market on Thursday -- the feature purchase was fresh asparagus -- dinner with Oat and Rosemarie from ALMOST HEAVEN.  Friday basically lost to reading and lounging around.  Yesterday, I met Chuck and Joann from MOKU HALE in Petoskey for lunch; and today I'm having dinner with friends who live here on Round Lake.

Life, as they say, is good.