Back in the good Ole US of A

Left Gore Bay as planned on Sunday morning -- and motored some 35 plus miles to Meldrum Bay.  The last harbor and marina on Manitoulin Island, and a delightful stop over if you understand that the town has a population of 50, and the biggest thing in town is either the marina or the Meldrum Inn.  Two years ago they put in new docks -- and the harbor master was most attentive, so I tied up with no problems.  MOKU HALE followed within two hours.

We had a delightful dinner at the Inn -- well known for it's great cuisine -- and casual atmosphere.  And a walk with Sophie along the one road in town (actually there are two, since one road seems to climb up the hill to some houses.)

Next morning, given flat seas and no winds to speak of, we backed out of our slip and headed to Detour Village.  With a stop for Customs clearance at Drummond Island.  An uneventful passage of less than 40 nautical miles including the detour into Drummond.  You can tell it is late in the season -- instead of waiting for clearance, the Customs Officer even helped me tie up. Within twenty minutes, I was motoring to Detour -- where there were three transient boats tied to the docks, and less than five others who obviously base their boating out of DeTour. 

And, then with little or no wind the next day, I set off to cross Lake Huron.  The wind gods were kind -- just kindly rollers of less than one feet, until I turned north into the channel between Bob Lo Island (actually Bois Blanc but the locals don't accept that) where the waves built to almost three feet and neither Sophie nor I were happy. 

Into Duncan Bay, and a slip aside CLASS ACT.  We are in the US, and back with friends who shared the summer in the North Channel.

Gore Bay Again, and the times inbetween

After leaving Killarney -- and thankful to be away from a dock again -- motored into light westerly winds to Haywood Island.  This time anchoring in the west anchorage, along with a slew (that's a technical sailing term meaning that I didn't count the number but it was more than a handful) of other boats.  Among them, my friends from Charlevoix on WINGS and the sailboat SWALLOW.

Donna on SWALLOW issued in invite to freshly baked cookies at 1500 hours -- and who could resist.  So, after taking Sophie ashore I went over with MOKU HALE to enjoy peanut butter cookies, and chocolate-mint chip cookies.  Seventh heaven!

Kept an eagle eye out for the mother bear and her cubs, but no such luck.  WINGS, on the other hand, spotted them on the beach, again playing and ignoring the human activity all around.

Next morning we left in a heavy fog -- the winds were supposed to build and we would be exposed to large, choppy water where we were anchored.  It is amazing to me, that I'm now relatively comfortable with the idea of motoring in dense fog using the radar and all my senses (and electronic chart plotters) to find my way around.  Not over confident, never that, but at least pretty comfortable.  Headed thru Little Current and back to the north shore and Sturgeon Cove. 

Renewed acquaintance with Paul and Deb on NADURRA (met them back in 2009), and after MOKU HALE came in I hosted happy hour on SONADOR.  Next day, bright sunshine called for a dinghy ride into and around Bell Cove with Chuck and Joann.  Returning, we were alerted to an alarm going off on SONADOR -- first, panic -- then, shame face at myself since I had turned on the chart plotter, then off before we left, and I had left the VHF on -- it's one of these new fangled units that will broadcast your position in case of an emergency, but doesn't have the foggiest where you are if the chart plotter is turned off -- thus the alarm.  Later, as we were planning an expanded happy hour on MOKU HALE, more friends came into the harbor -- and the happy hour moved to the beach.

Next day was also sunny, so nothing would do but another dinghy exploration -- this time to the east toward the Bay of Islands.  We poked into one of the anchorages, which I would enter if and only if there was a deeper draft boat leading the way.  But very protected.  Returning, another new boat in Sturgeon, this time SALTY DAWG from across the dock in Gore Bay, so another happy hour on MOKU HALE.

Next day, cold and rain, accompanied by dense fog -- and the decision was unanimous, stay where you are and read.  Finally, the next morning in fog, but no rain we motored over to Eagle Island where MOKU HALE and SONADOR were the only two boats for a couple of hours until one other sailboat came in.  Sophie has an island here, so she's a much happier dog when we can scramble ashore and she can get off the leash if only for half an hour.

Thursday, mid-morning we left Eagle for Gore Bay.  And, this morning I'm sitting in the cockpit having shopped at the farmers' market for home baked bread, fresh veggies -- and an interesting acrylic painting by a local First Nation artist.  It's high overcast, and a little cool, but life is good with hot showers, an LCBO (those happy hours put a dent in the wine supply), and long walks for Sophie. 

Here 'til Sunday, when we'll start seriously heading west.  Right now planning on the south shore of the North Channel skimming the islands that form the Channel and eventually clearing customs at Drummond Island, Michigan.  Then across the lake to Cheboygan.

No pictures -- you've seen all of these places before.

Three days of "undesirable" weather!!

It is now Wednesday evening -- getting on towards nine o'clock and for the first time in three days, the winds have died down a little.  What was planned as a one night stop over in Killarney has stretched into three -- we are hoping to get out of here tomorrow.

Many Canadian marinas have floating docks -- anchored at the shore but free to move at the mid-stream end depending on weight of boats, current, etc.  Well, here in Killarney they've taken that to the extreme -- so when the winds started to really pipe up from the east, which is straight down the Killarney channel -- the docks began to shift A LOT!  The staff valiantly strung lines between the ends of the docks -- effectively locking all the boats in place and hopefully giving the weaker docks some chance of staying moored to shore. 

Our own dock, which is among the newer in this marina, has shifted easily five feet from it's original orientation to the shore -- first affected by the easterly winds of 25 plus knots -- then happily moved back in place, and beyond by the westerly winds of the same velocity over the last twenty-four hours.  And, not to be out done, it had to rain cats and dogs for a full day before we had paid penance for all the beautiful weather up until today.

So, we made adjustments in our plans -- ate more fresh fish at the dock, had a wonderful dinner at Sportsman's Inn (our marina), and have been for several walks about town (remember this is a town of three blocks long and probably four blocks deep), and have enjoyed the company of friends on the docks.

MOKU HALE and SONADOR are planning, along with half the boats here, to leave tomorrow morning -- we are heading west to destination unknown and several boats are heading east to head out into Lake Huron proper.  It's still supposed to be blowing tomorrow, but from the north so we hope to be protected for our journey.

Sophie has NOT been told of these plans -- she won't be a happy camper, but we need to move on.

Hope to have internet access in a week or so.

Rally at Keyhole

Friday, motored the five plus nautical miles east to the entrance to the Collins Inlet and Key Hole anchorage which is tucked behind an island on the north shore -- right up against the Killarney Provincial Park.  Dropped anchor and almost immediately began to explore looking for a landing for Sophie.  My first choice turned out to be too steep for my happiness or her safety (or perhaps the other way around.)  The next, which was right near my boat was most satisfactory with flat rocks for landing the dinghy, and walkable rocks and woods (short walks) for her.  Of course, during this time a bear swam from one island to the mainland -- but I didn't see it :(

Later, an informal happy hour on shore at Sophie's chosen spot.  Such a SMART dog!

Saturday began the official rally with plans for the two days being announced -- boats with kayaks set off on their own exploration.  Mel and Sue and I ventured around to the south shore of the Inlet for blue berry picking -- which pleased Sophie no end, since she was able to run around while we were busy.  Dave from SWALLOW comes over to help adjust the starting of my outboard, and to explore SONADOR -- he is a naval architect from Delaware and runs his own boat building and maintenance shop -- that's one of the nice things about these gatherings, lots of people to help solve problems.  More shore time in the afternoon, helping to set up the rally site -- followed by a most welcome swim in the water which was all of 72 degrees!  Happy hour on shore, and visiting afterwards with new and old friends.

Sunday began with a heavy fog, but it lifted in time for a planned trip to the Chickanishing River which is a major launching point for canoe/kayak exploration in this part of the Provincial Park.  About two miles on the main channel, and then another mile up river to a pretty little falls -- hiking for a while, blue berry picking, and returning down stream and back to Key Hole.  Mid-afternoon another bear and a deer swimming right next to SONADOR -- but I was head down in a can't put it down book and saw neither :( 

Dinner on shore was fresh lake trout cooked over a charcoal fire by some of the GLCC members -- everyone brought sides to share, and we visited some more before telling of plans for the next week or month, depending on how long boats are staying out (some of these people are still working, so they have to get back home.)

Today, Monday I've come back to Killarney with Joanne and Chuck from MOKU HALE where we've taken a slip for at least one night as bad weather is predicted for a couple of days this week.

Pictures of Benjamins and Haywood

Sophie and Mom at Benjamins

On our Dinghy Tour of Benjamins

Totem and Friends at Haywood

Anchorage at Haywood

After the Rally a Convenience Stop, Anchoring in the Benjamins, and Bears in Haywood

Following the rally, we all high tailed it into Gore Bay for all the necessities of life on a boat -- and some time on shore for my four legged friend.  That done in two days, back out into the North Channel.

Anchored at South Benjamin

Sophie, Mel and Sue

If you followed my meanderings on a chart, you'd swear I've lost it -- back and forth, round and round -- but that's just because you've got to hit all your favorite places at least once.  First stop:  the south anchorage of the Benjamins.  I actually have only been in here once before and that was way back in 2008 on my way north -- it is beautiful, but no place to be in a southerly wind and that was what we experienced back then.  But this year, it was quiet and just a perfect place for two days at anchor with friends.  We did the requisite blueberry picking -- I am sure that I will have gained ten pounds from the resulting pancakes! -- and, we toured the islands in our dinghies on another afternoon. 

Impressive Rock Formations make up the Benjamins

Then, heading east through Little Current -- but not stopping except for the bridge which only opens on the hour for seven minutes -- and into the east anchorage at Haywood Island.  Our first venture to shore, I discovered fresh bear scat!  So, Sophie and I abbreviated our visit and looked for another shore line -- which also had evidence of bears, but not so recent.  Turns out there was a mom and three cubs playing in the area -- swimming back and forth between the islands, and generally creating a nervous me.  Sophie at first was oblivious!!

The second morning, however, her hackles were raised and a low, very serious growl filled her whole body -- so, onto another landing place where she stopped the growling and proceeded to bark loudly and seriously!  Now, I'm a pretty civilized person and the idea of running into bears with my "brave" dog at my side is not the way I want to spend any time.  But, this time, the alarm was raised because there was an elderly first nation man who was breaking camp on the near shore.  All is well, my heart was back to normal within the hour.

Later that day, Mel and Sue from Class Act and I dinghied around the anchorages -- and we discovered (as many had before us) a totem near another first nation encampment.  Later, we enjoyed happy hour (actually, I shouldn't ever have to write about that ritual since it is an almost nightly occurrence) with others in the anchorage before storms blew in.  An early night with no need for dinner.

Did I mention how much and how often we seem to be eating up here?  Fat clothes here I come!! 

Today, we've come further east to Killarney -- small town on a connecting waterway between the Georgian Bay and the North Channel.  A place for fish and chips, small grocery shopping, the LCBO, and dinner out before another two day rally -- this one in Key Hole off the Collins Inlet.

Wilderness Rally at Turnbull

Turnbull Island is one of my favorite anchorages in the North Channel -- plenty of room for lots of boats (this was taken Saturday before the rally really started) -- and it has a sandy beach (although smaller in this year of higher water) to take Sophie ashore.

How to explain a wilderness rally, except to say that it is camp for adults -- a large fire to gather around, gatherings on the beach, dinghy adventures and races, more gatherings, and finally a sing along.

This is Jorma towing some logs from around the bay to the beach for the camp fire -- quite an adventure even getting the logs into the water -- and they did burn eventually.




The book exchange is always a fun time -- we reduce the number of books we are carrying, only to replace them with even more books for reading.  And, there is a lot of reading to be done while at anchor -- I've gone thru more than twenty books so far this summer -- and have another twenty to last me through August.

On the south side of the anchorage is a string of islands which we can explore -- this is dubbed "Sophie's rock" since she is allowed to roam free with little chance of danger or getting lost.

Monday was the unofficial start -- with a beer exchange on shore (bring six beers, return with six others -- except those consumed during time ashore.) 

The first official night, we got rained out -- so our shore party was cancelled.  But the next day, we had the book exchange followed by a picnic on Clara Island (about a mile west) -- Sophie, Sue Durchslag, and I went to Sophie's rock.  The winds really picked up, and by the time we returned to the main anchorage one of the sail boats had dragged ashore -- luckily into the sandy bottom, so there was little or no damage (except to owner's pride.)  That night there was a happy hour on board select host boats (Sonador being one of the hosts.)

Thursday started with rain -- so the next book exchange moved to CLASS ACT where the women held sway with lots of talk, hot tea, and more books found.  That evening, on shore again, we had the annual "chilly dump" where all the chilly pots are combined into one large kettle, heated over an open fire and enjoyed by all.  And, Friday morning early it was time to pull anchor and return to Gore Bay for the necessary laundry, provisioning, and hot showers.

Sunday, we leave for points east with another rally planned for the end of the week in northern Georgian Bay.